Hauraki Gulf
On my journey around the North Island I spent nearly six weeks in
and out of Auckland revisiting favourite spots around the Hauraki Gulf. While my
wife was still with me, we went ashore at Oneroa on Waiheke for a stroll, coffee
and stores. We also went walking up through the hospital ruins and wild flower
meadows on Motuihe and while anchored off Browns Island we were treated to a
helicopter rescue practice off the cliffs less than 100m from the boat. When I
dropped Joss off on the Admiralty Steps in Auckland to catch a bus to the
airport a huge cruise liner towered above us with all its lifeboats bigger than
ARCA.
I had planned my time in the Auckland area to coincide with
the America’s Cup races but in fact only went out once as a spectator. However
nothing had prepared me for the wash created by the incoming spectator fleet
each day. One night anchored amongst the moorings near the Akarana Yacht Club
the yacht was bouncing around so violently that I had to wait two hours before
it was safe enough to cook tea. Another night anchored out in front of the
Devonport Yacht Club, ARCA was lifting and falling so much I was convinced the
keel was being bounced in the mud but it was too dangerous to row out in the
turmoil of broken water to check. After the terrors of being caught in the
middle of the incoming fleet once, I made sure I was well clear on other days.
However I did enjoy the day the super yachts were scheduled to race. It was dead
flat calm and I was able to motor in and around them taking photos as they sat
becalmed near the start line before the race was cancelled.
My two sons, one with a partner, arrived from Wellington. We
spent a few quiet days making a circuit of Waiheke with one of the nights in the
tranquillity of Hook Bay at the Eastern end. We returned to Devonport for
supplies and dinner with friends and woke next morning to an electrical storm
and gale force winds blowing down the harbour. Bayswater Marina could not allow
us to stay another day as they needed our rented berth for another yacht
visiting for the A.C. Getting out of the berth and then out of the marina with
winds gusting at 40kts required some careful thought and planning. I rehearsed
the crew on the sequence to follow then with heart in mouth set everything in
motion. It needed full power on the motor to hold position along the channel but
when we turned down the harbour I began to relax. With two reefs in the main and
the small jib we were flying. Each time the rain squalls cleared we could see
one other mad yachtie working hard to overtake us. Just as they came abeam while
passing Islington Bay their jib split right down the centre and we won the
"race" by default. That night we anchored behind Motutapu Island and
the gale began to moderate.
The next morning there was still plenty of wind for a fast
trip to Kawau Is where my son finally succeeded in seeing a small wallaby in the
bush. As the day progressed hundreds of boats from Auckland began arriving for a
delayed start to anniversary weekend. By nightfall it felt as if one could walk
from one shore to the other by jumping boat to boat, so many boats had crowded
into the Bay. It was a very pleasant few days, walking to the copper mine,
snorkelling around the sunken hulk and watching the sunsets each evening. On the
way back to Auckland we anchored off little Manly Bay and watched school kids
leaping off the cliffs into the sea and the next day we sailed passed the two
Alinghi A.C. boats trialling off Browns Bay. I left my family at Devonport and
motored out on my own.
I still had 10 days before my next crew would arrive from
Wellington for the trip up to the Bay of Islands and after having shared my
cabin with three energetic young persons and their rock music, was looking
forward to a bit of solitude and my own classical music tapes. I headed to the
bottom of Waiheke and next day across to Coromandel Harbour. The air was warm,
the breeze steady and I was feeling totally at peace with the world. I meandered
up the Coromandel Coast amongst the outlying islands working my way through my
complete set of tapes. As I headed back to Auckland I placed a phone call to the
previous owner of ARCA. Would he like to join me for a day’s sailing before I
headed north? I picked him up off Bucklands Beach. We had a fine run down to
Ponui Island and a great lunch. He was very interested in the new roller furler
I had fitted together with other modification I had made for the cruise. On the
way back the wind began to rise and was soon above 30kts. Another reef in the
main and a reduction in jib area and we ploughed on with the rail going under
every now and then in the gusts. It took the best part of four hours to beat
back but it was a spectacular end to my six weeks revisiting my old sailing
playground. I was now more than ready to head for the Bay of Islands having
never been further north than Kawau Island. My only regret was not having made
the time to revisit Tryphena and Port Fitzroy on Great Barrier.
