The Hull
Prior to the lift out or haul, mark out with coloured
insulation tape where you want the cradle arms or lifting strops to be
placed. Do this port and starboard. This tape can be put around the
lifelines providing the outer plastic sleeve does not move fore or aft.
Book a water blaster to clean off all the growth prior to
the boat being placed in its yard position. This can save hours of work.
Make sure this includes the bottom of the keel.
Make sure the boat and cradle are secure and that all
cradle bolts are tightened up. Some yards use "Acrow Props"
instead of a cradle. I personally do not trust these as I have seen the
result of a boat falling over when one slipped. Luckily no one was injured
but the resulting damage did not impress the owner of the boat next door or
for that matter the owner of the boat that fell over or their respective
insurance companies. It is your boat so insist on a proper cradle, if that
is you wish.
Carry out a detailed inspection of the hull from keel to
gunwale and bow to stern. Look for scratches in the topsides and circle them
with a pencil, note in your book their position and if they are through the
gel coat or not. Minor scratches can be polished out with cutting compound
and wax. Deeper ones will need to be cleaned down with acetone to remove any
traces of wax and filled with a gel-coat putty. This can be coloured with
tinting compound available from resin manufacturers. Leave the putty proud
of the surface and after it has cured smooth out by hand with 600-800 grit
wet and dry paper. Finally cut & polish.
Next check from the boot topping down to the bottom of the
keel. It is a good idea to have a tungsten scrapper to hand when you do this
as you can investigate any potential bubbles or blisters that you may find.
Please be aware that these could well be just between the anti-fouling and
the undercoat. Some anti-fouling and epoxy undercoat systems are
incompatible or the first coat of anti-fouling needs to go on green
undercoat within a certain time period. Check with your paint system
manufacturer.
If you do find any osmosis, the first thing to do is
establish how bad it is and if it looks a job outside your ability consult
with one of the excellent specialists who undertake this type of repair
work. Small blisters can be carefully ground out, thoroughly washed out with
fresh water and then allowed to dry. Prior to filling with a good epoxy
filler, clean the effected areas out with acetone and allow it to flash off.
After the filler has cured sand smooth and apply 2 coats of epoxy undercoat
prior to your antifouling system.
Two excellent books: to read on this subject are:
"This old boat" by Don Casey ISBN: 0-87742-262-1, and "The
Fibreglass Boat repair Manual" by Allan Vaitses. ISBN:0-229-11855-0.
Remember Steel & ferro boats rust, wooden ones get rot, alloy corrode,
and fibreglass ones get blisters. Fibreglass is very very easy to repair.
Anti fouling preparation and application is very well
covered by all the paint manufactures. Follow their instruction leaflets and
always wear breathing and skin protection. Your body needs copper, but not
in toxic quantities.
